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When compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning names. Yet, nestled high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family totally shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.